I arrived to Rio de Janeiro by bus at 5:30am on a Friday. It was still dark, and all I had was R$10 in my pocket, my heavy bag and a piece of paper with the address of my friend and instructions to “take bus 170/172 towards Gloria”
Starving, exhausted, not knowing exactly where I was going, where to get off, broke (only had Dollars, no more Reales) and completely alone... SHIT, my head was out of the clouds and I hit the ground going 80mph. I understood how hard it is to travel alone, how isolating it is not to know the language, how helpless/vulnerable a girl/tourist/traveler can be at times and how much courage it takes to do something as simple as taking the bus. Having spent the last two weeks in SP alone had been nice, had been relaxing and even somewhat nurturing, but Rio is different. There was no sign though…
Facts and thoughts by day:
1 Friday – met Luciana, Ezra, Ana and the cat. Went to Ave Nossa Senhora de Copacabana. Bought orange swimsuit. Ipanema for the first time. Cried. First beer. Swam. LAPA at night for outdoor bloco and party. Spoke Portuguese all night with strangers. Saw the LAPA arches and stairs. Eye candy. Music. Dancing. First taste of Carnaval.
Luciana and Ana are a mix of my sister Anna. Gorgeous, curly, kind-hearted, conscious, funny, independent, ready to be your friend forever. After my terrifying reality check it was nice to be able to depend on someone else for a change as they took me through the busy streets, negotiated with the beach vendors and pointed me in the right direction.
Although I read two books on Rio de Janeiro, saw pictures and heard stories from Anna’s visit, seeing the beach for the first time in 3 years overwhelmed me in a way that I could not have prepared myself. Forgetting heat, the cloudless skies, the crowded beach with red and yellow umbrellas for a second… the white sand, the sound of the waves, the blue water and the smell of salt that filled my lungs took me by surprise. Seemingly unlimited coast with islands and skies as the background—it has been the most beautiful paisaje that I have ever seen in my entire life. (I type this and I am tearing up!)
“I can’t believe I am here,” I kept repeating out-loud… I walked slowly as to absorb the moment forever in my memory, in my soul. Then, as I gathered the courage to sink my feet in the water, I remembered… the last time I was in the ocean was when I held my father’s hand because he couldn’t stand alone. I remembered that I had held that moment in my memory as the most solemn show of support that I had ever given him… and I cried again.
LAPA is popular for the nightlife. You can see the pictures of people drinking and dancing on the streets but you can’t hear the Brasilian Funk, salsa and meringue, samba and American music coming from the windows, the beat of the drums outside in the plaza; you can’t smell the scent of beer and sweat, pot and cigarette smoke, and sun baked piss; you can’t feel the vibration of the energy of the crowd, the heat and breeze of summer and the incredible overwhelming feeling when everyone is singing the same song.
2 Saturday – Bloco in Botafogo/Barbas. Crowds. Heat. Humidity. Beer. Costumes: Ezra was a girl and Lu was a boy. Ipanema bloco to meet some friends. Had the first Brahva- Brasilian National Beer. Party in Centro. Took the funnest bus ride. Listened to Bob Marley under the stars and flew closer to the moon. Taxi ride back home: Reality check. Left phone in taxi.
Carnaval is about music, drums, dancing, people, colors, self expression and booze. The way that blocos work is that the local music/samba school organizes a parade that includes the queen/king, dancers, musicians with every percussion instrument imaginable and singers on a platform/truck—in that order. Then there are all the people that gather around it as it begins and then travels down the streets of the area. Each bloco has its own songs that they hand out the lyrics for and they also play some classics that every knows by heart J Costumes are encouraged as you celebrate this huge party and they ranged from everything from random wigs to girls with wings to boys as girls. One of the things I loved the most about Carnaval is also the one that I resent the most—people singing along. One thing is to hear the music, to see it being played, to feel the beat match your heart’s and dance (which I did) but a different one is to be able to share this feeling with others by singing along and pouring out all that joy you feel inside (which I could not do). L
On the taxi back home from the Centro I found myself alone, vulnerable and lost again. Didn’t know how far away I was from home nor how to get there. I was not sober and the taxi driver kept asking me questions that made me realize many things:
Taxi: So you’re a tourist traveling alone?
Me: yeah
T: Do you know where we are now?
Me: No
T: So I could take you anywhere I want and you wouldn’t know the difference?
Me: You wouldn’t do that. Por favor no L
T: This city is very dangerous
Me: I know
In the end, I ran out of the cab feeling a sense of fear that stuck with me for the rest of the visit there. To make things worse, I dropped the phone inside the taxi and although I called it many times, there was no answer.
3 Sunday – Bloco in Catete. Ipanema. Packed metro. First sunset. Home-made caipirinas. LAPA. Brasilian Kopec. Most pretentious man in the world. Too many rounds.
4 Monday – Bloco in Santa Teresa/Maracatu! Too hot. Artist neighborhood. Lovely views. Better costumes. Brasilian Kopec. Graffiti. Sambodromo without tickets
5 Tuesday – CARNAVAL! Santa Teresa, but forgot my camera. Lemme beach. Nap on the beach. Blocos all along Lake Shore. Walked from Posto 1-Lemme to Copacabana to Posto 9-Ipanema. Graffiti. Sunset tears. Beach at night. Emporio. Caipirinas with the girls. Smoking on the beach. Saw Luciana’s soul.
6 Wednesday – Cat falls out the window. Vet. Went to Maracana. Futbol. Life. Passion. Love. Loyalty. Flamengo vs Botafogo Semifinal
7 Thursday – Home: body protesting. Heart to heart with Ana. Emporio. Rum shots. Beer. Lu gets sick.
8 Friday— Bank. Beach. LAPA intimate concert. Graffiti . dancing. Too many rounds. Boys
9 Saturday— Visit Ana. Graffiti. Beach. Sunset at the rock. Sambodromo: Parade of Champions. Foreigners.
10 Sunday— Bloco in Copacabana with Ana. Capoeira dancers. Beach. Sunset. Graffiti.
11 Monday— Bank. Uruguiana. Boat party. boys
12 Tuesday— SP








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