The following are the basic descriptions of my trip to Nordeste. All the information was inteded to help/guide a friend who was thinking of doing the same trip. My reflections and feelings on the trip are missing. ps. pictures are missing because internet here sucks. They will be added later.
We traveled from GRU to FOR, on TAM, direct: about $230.
When you arrive, pay a fixed rate for the taxi at the airport when you give them an address (this way you won’t get the gringo tour/price) it should be R$38 to this hostel which is close to the beaches and the Cultural Center.
Backpackers Ceara in Fortaleza, Brazil.
Avenida Dom Manuel, 89
Praia de Iracema, Fortaleza
Not much to do in Fortaleza, don’t stay too long (a day or two max)
(Make reservations ahead of time if possible, specially if you go in high season)
We went with all the cheapest places, all the breakfasts are the same always but the accommodations are what matter. We would’ve killed for air-conditioning.
There are some cool beaches, a large market and some nice places to take pictures. It is Northern Brazil, after all, and it is rich in history. Since I got there a day later, I didn’t get to see much besides the pictures that Lonneke took.
Then we transferred to Jericocoara (5-7 hours)/ 3 buses per day/ $18-25
You must go to get tickets for the bus at Velasur or Beach Point bus companies; make sure you know where they pick you up.
The ride was uneventful, we stopped for lunch at a small oasis for about half-hour, then we arrived at the transfer point: a tiny town center, where we got on a big truck to take us to Jeri. (They will explain at the bus agency)
The bus will stop in the middle of the town and you will be bombarded with hostel offers, they will give you a ride to the place even. It’s a good idea to walk around the whole town in order to find what you like. Many of them won’t be online anyway so no use in booking ahead of time and since there are no maps of Jeri (no google maps!!! Can you believe it?!?!) it is better to talk and bargain. You can see the whole town in a few minutes so its best not to accept the first offer you get.
We stayed at Pousada Sol Nascente which was in the center, across from the Havaiana Store.
Spend at least 3-5 days in Jericoacoara! It is amazing…
Outside in the town center and at most hostels there are people offering buggy tours and they have maps of where you go (finally! A map!). Prices vary and there are about 6 different tours… about R$240 per car/day so divide it with other travelers… Go to Pedra Furada, the Lagoons (Paraiso! It is greeeeeaaaaat), and the Sand Dunes for sure, don’t go to the cabalho marino tour.
Sun sets perfectly in the beach closest to Jeri so make sure you see at least one amazing sunset… they have capoeira shows (so cool) and horse back riding on the dunes (not for me but you might like it)
Night life was pretty much dead when we were there since it was low-season, so we mostly hung out at the beach and the hostel… made our own food and caipirinhas.
About 2 days before you want to leave book a transfer to Lencois Maranhenses. There are buses so ask about it but in rainy season this might be a little more complicated because everything is flooded… still ask for a 4X4 that can take you.
The buses take about a day and a half, one takes you half way, you spend the night at the only hostel in the area and then you take another one to your final destination.
Since we were on a tight schedule we paid R$1000 for a 4x4 to take us on a 8-10 drive. Very tough terrain, very long and stressful and uncomfortable (to say the least) but the experience of a lifetime, make sure you know you are choosing lots of pain to save some time. Also, THERE ARE NO ROADS! This is why a 4x4 is necessary, as we drove along beaches and sand dunes for hours not passing a single house or person. SOMETIMES I STILL WONDER HOW WE DIDN’T DIE.
You will arrive in Barreirinhas (a small pointless city) and can visit the park from there. There are 2 cooperative offices in town, your driver should know where and if you ask them to find you a hostel, they will help you. They will also offer tours to the park… Big Lençois is by car and Little Lençois is by boat… both are amazing!!!!
You only need 3-4 days here max. This is the absolutely greatest place, if you can’t do any of the things described above, go here!!!!!
The lagoons weren’t completely full since rainy season was just starting but the place and the views and the grandeour of the sandunes was still magestic. I wish you the best of trips since you will be there at the right time… There is also not much night life here. There are some barracks by the river and it is a nice place to relax, but not much else to do.
There are 2 buses that leave daily at 9am and 430pm to Sao Luiz, which is the closes airport, R$15 I think. Not much to see in Sao Luiz… nice for pictures and lots of French history J but the beaches we went to were pretty dirty L
We stayed at Pousada Internacional - Rua da Estrella, 175. Which was a decent place to stay and next door to it there is a Hotel that wasn’t so bad but this depends on season… the center was within walking distance and so was the bus terminal and beach. There is an old almost abandoned island good for pictures but not much else to see on the other side of the bridge.
Because we had already booked our flights we stayed at Sao Luiz for 3 days. That was way too much, low season and in a poor, shitty city… no fun.
Take a bus at the main Rodoviaria to the airport.
SLZ to GRU (might be able to find to CGH) for $209,83
Good luck and have a GREAT trip…
This trip can be summed up for me into one word: TRANSITIONS
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